We arrived at the woman’s home in the early afternoon. Getting to it involved walking down narrow alleys rich with the aroma of food being cooked on an open grill mixed with the stench of sewage and refuse. Young men who clearly had nothing better to do on a Tuesday afternoon eyed us suspiciously. Children raced up to get a glimpse of the unusual site of Caucasian visitors. We passed by roosters in cages that were gearing up for the afternoon cock fight.